Study on extraction, identification and stability of UV resistant MAAs from Porphyra haitanensis in cosmetics system
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摘要: 以坛紫菜 (Porphyra haitanensis)为原料，提取抗紫外辐射物质类菌胞素氨基酸 (Mycosporine-like amino acids, MAAs)，通过紫外可见光谱、液质联用对其进行表征，研究了化妆品体系中的各因素 (pH、光照、温度、防腐剂、抗氧化剂、功能性添加剂) 对MAAs化合物稳定性的影响。结果表明，坛紫菜中MAAs类化合物的种类为Shionrine和Porphyra-334；MAAs在pH6的微酸环境中稳定性最高；紫外照射10 h能使溶液的吸光度下降94.4%；48 ℃高温放置56 d后吸光度下降了28.3%；48 ℃下添加小分子肽溶液的吸光度提高了82%，添加透明质酸溶液的吸光度提高了18.6%，能显著增强MAAs化合物的稳定性；其他常用防腐剂、抗氧化剂和功能性添加剂对MAAs的稳定性无明显影响。Abstract: Taking Porphyra haitanensis as raw material, we extracted the mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) and charaterized them by UV Vis spectroscopy and Liquid Chromatograph-Mass Spectrometer (LC-MS), so as to study the effects of various factors in the cosmetic system (pH, light, temperature, preservatives, antioxidants and functional additives) on the stability of MAAs. The results show that Shionrine and Porphyra-334 were the main MAAs in P. haitanensis. MAAs had the highest stability in the weak acid environment with pH=6. UV irradiation for 10 h could decrease the absorbance value by 94.4%. After having been placed at 48 ℃ for 56 d, its absorbance value decreased by 28.3%. At 48 ℃, the addition of small peptide and hyaluronic acid increased the absorbance value of the solution by 82% and 18.6%, respectively, which could improve the stability of MAAs compounds significantly. Other commonly used preservatives, antioxidants and functional additives had no significant effects on the stability of the MAAs.
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Key words:
- Porphyra haitanensis /
- MAAs compounds /
- Anti-UV /
- Cosmetics /
- Stability
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图 1 坛紫菜 MAAs提取液的紫外扫描图谱
Figure 1. UV scanning spectrum of MAAs extracted from P. haitanensis
图 2 坛紫菜 MAAs提取液的总离子流图
Figure 2. Total ion current (TIC) spectrum of MAAs extracted from P. haitanensis
图 4 pH (a)、光照 (b) 和温度 (c) 对MAAs化合物稳定性的影响
Figure 4. Effects of pH (a), light (b) and temperature (c) on stability of MAAs
表 1 总离子流图的具体峰参数
Table 1. Specific peak parameters of total ion chromatogram
峰
Peak出峰时间
peak time峰类型
Peak type峰高
Peak height修正面积
Corrected area修正面积占总比数
Percentage/%1 4.326 47 rVB 4 503 618 7 485 541 19.529 2 6.059 186 rVV 3 124 289 7 248 372 19.911 3 8.296 360 rBV 2 802 473 7 692 893 20.070 4 9.146 440 rBV2 677 378 7 131 761 18.606 5 9.971 503 rBV3 392 427 3 211 642 8.379 
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